How to learn surfing

Dry run: paddle & pop up technique

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Before you touch the water, you should start with the basics. On the sandy beach, your instructor will introduce you to basic paddling and pop-up techniques. Imagine you catch a wave. As it approaches, you need to go from lying flat on the board to standing up quickly. Practise the fluid movement of pushing yourself up with your arms, lifting your chest off the board and swinging your legs under the board. It's like a graceful dance between you and the ocean.

Mastering the paddling technique is crucial. Your arms become your motor, propelling you forward. Concentrate on long, powerful strokes and keep your body streamlined. Feel the resistance of the water on your hands and find your rhythm. The pop-up is all about timing and coordination. Push yourself up firmly, tensing your core muscles, and gently come to your feet. Imagine the thrill of catching your first wave - the anticipation, the adrenaline and the sheer joy of gliding across the water.


 

Positioning on the surfboard

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Now let's talk about positioning on the board. Your surfboard is your trusty steed, and it's how you stand on it that matters. Ideally, your left hand should be on the left rail of the board and your right hand on the right rail. Imagine you are walking on a tightrope - both hands are firm. Keep your chest down, in line with the plank, and avoid pointing your nose upwards. This balanced position ensures stability and control. Feel the texture of the wax under your feet, the sun warming your back and the salty breeze in your hair. You're ready to conquer the waves.

 

Surfing Etiquette

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Surfing isn't just about catching waves, it's also about sharing the fun with other surfers. Surfing etiquette ensures that everyone is safe and happy. Here are some golden rules:

Right of Way: the surfer closest to the crest of the wave has the right of way. Give them the right of way. If someone is already riding a wave, don't try to start too late - it's like jumping the queue. Respect the unspoken hierarchy of the ocean.

Don't drop in: Imagine a wave rolling towards you. Another surfer is already riding it. Wait your turn. Jumping on someone else's wave is taboo. It's like stepping on their toes while they're dancing. Instead, cheer them on and wait for your moment.

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Paddle

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For paddling, timing and acceleration is important: As the wave approaches, start paddling calmly. When you feel it lifting you, speed up your paddle strokes to match the speed of the wave. Think of an aeroplane taking off. Your arms glide through the water and propel you towards the horizon.

Catch a wave (white water)

Now it's time to venture into the shallows. Whitewater waves (the broken ones) are your training ground. Here's what you'll be doing:

Kick and push off: As the whitewater lifts your board, push off with your legs to propel yourself forward. Keep your chest down and match the face of the wave. Stay parallel to the wave and avoid nosediving. Feel the energy surge beneath you - the heartbeat of the ocean pulsing through your board.
 

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Ride the wave

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Stay balanced and centred on the wave. Maintain a balanced stance and keep your weight centred on the board. Avoid leaning too far forwards or backwards as this can cause you to lose control. Keep your gaze forwards, towards the shore. Use your arms to paddle gently. You want to stay in front of the wave and keep moving. Glide along the wave and feel the sound of the water beneath you. Remember that you are riding on white water, so you don't need to worry about steep drops or critical manoeuvres at this stage. Enjoy the ride! Feel the energy of the wave pushing you forward. Keep your body relaxed and let yourself drift. Smile, because you're surfing!.